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How an air source heat pump actually works

A gas boiler makes heat by burning something. A heat pump does not make heat at all, it moves heat that already exists in the outside air into your home. That single difference is why the efficiency numbers look impossible until you understand the cycle.

Updated 4 August 2026 · written by the Clearline guidance team

7 dated sources, listed in full below Independent guidance, written to inform rather than sell Figures recomputed at every update, never recycled
An air source heat pump outdoor unit mounted at a UK terraced house

The short answer

An air source heat pump takes low grade heat out of the outside air, concentrates it by compressing a refrigerant, and hands it over to the water in your heating system. It uses electricity to run the compressor and the fans, not to create the heat itself. That is why the output can be several times larger than the electricity input, and why comparing a heat pump to an electric immersion heater is the wrong mental model.

In the government funded Electrification of Heat demonstration project, which monitored 742 heat pumps in real British homes, the median in situ seasonal performance factor for air source systems was 2.80. In plain terms, the median home in that trial got 2.8 units of heat out for every unit of electricity in. Well designed installations do better than that, and poor ones do worse, which is the real story of this technology.

The one number that matters

Seasonal performance factor, or SPF, is the measured ratio of heat delivered to electricity consumed across a whole year in a real house. SCOP is the laboratory equivalent from the datasheet. A system quoted at SCOP 4.8 in the lab can land nearer 2.8 in the field if the design is wrong, and the difference is money off your bill every single day.

The cycle, in four moves

Every air source heat pump does the same four things in a loop. The refrigerant inside is chosen because it boils at a very low temperature, so even cold winter air is warm enough to make it evaporate.

An air source heat pump outdoor unit mounted at a UK terraced house
An air source heat pump outdoor unit. Siting drives both performance and planning.
How a heat pump moves heat into your home Four steps that follow the heat. One, outside air holds usable heat even when the weather is cold. Two, the refrigerant absorbs that heat and the compressor raises its temperature. Three, the heat transfers across into your water circuit. Four, radiators or underfloor pipes release it into the room. How a heat pump moves heat 1 Outside air Holds usable heat even on a cold day 2 Refrigerant and compressor It takes the heat in, then lifts the temperature 3 Your water circuit The heat passes into your heating water 4 Radiators or underfloor Warmth is released into the room
Heat is moved from outside air into your heating water rather than created from fuel.
Step 1

Evaporate

A fan pulls outside air across a coil holding cold liquid refrigerant. Heat from the air makes the refrigerant boil into a gas, even when the air feels freezing to you.

Step 2

Compress

An electrically driven compressor squeezes that gas. Compressing a gas raises its temperature sharply, which is the step that turns useless low grade warmth into usable heat.

Step 3

Condense

The hot gas passes through a heat exchanger against the water in your heating circuit. It gives up its heat to the water and condenses back to a liquid.

Step 4

Expand

An expansion valve drops the pressure, the liquid gets cold again, and the loop starts over. Nothing is burned and nothing is consumed except electricity for the compressor and fans.

Where the heat ends up

The water leaving the heat pump goes to whatever emitters your house has. Radiators, underfloor heating, or a mix of the two. It also heats a hot water cylinder, because a heat pump does not work like a combi boiler that heats water on demand at the tap.

  • Radiators work, but they were almost certainly sized for boiler temperatures and some rooms may need larger ones. Our guide to whether you need new radiators covers the room by room arithmetic.
  • Underfloor heating is the natural partner, because it already runs at the temperatures a heat pump likes. See underfloor heating and heat pumps.
  • Hot water is stored in a cylinder rather than made on demand. Vaillant states that its aroTHERM plus reaches a 75C flow temperature, which the manufacturer says allows cylinder hot water without an immersion heater top up for legionella protection.

Why temperature is the whole game

A heat pump gets less efficient the harder you ask it to work, and how hard it works is set by the gap between the outside air and the water temperature you demand. Heat pumps run most efficiently at flow temperatures of roughly 35 to 45C, against 70 to 80C for a conventional boiler system.

Samsung's own published figures make the cost of pushing that temperature up very visible. Its EHS Mono R290 5 kW model is quoted at SCOP up to 4.84 at a 35C flow temperature. Its EHS Mono HT Quiet range at a 65C flow temperature is quoted at SCOP 2.82 for the 8 kW, 3.01 for the 12 kW and 3.03 for the 14 kW. Same manufacturer, same technology, roughly 40 percent less efficient at the higher temperature.

This is why flow temperature is the number to argue about in a quote, and why the emitters in your rooms matter more than the badge on the box outside.

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Does it work in a British winter

Yes, and the manufacturer operating ranges are far below anything a UK winter produces. Vaillant quotes the aroTHERM plus as operating down to minus 25C outdoor temperature. The Mitsubishi Electric Ecodan R290 datasheet quotes the same minus 25C limit, and Daikin quotes operation down to minus 25C on the Altherma 3 R. Efficiency drops as it gets colder, because the temperature gap widens, but the unit keeps running.

The more useful winter question is whether the system was sized for your actual heat loss on the coldest design day, which is what a proper survey establishes. That is covered in heat pump sizing and what a proper survey covers.

R290 and why 2026 units run hotter

The industry has shifted its flagship models to R290, which is propane, with a global warming potential of 3 as quoted by Vaillant. Vaillant, Mitsubishi Electric, Samsung, Grant and Octopus all now lead with R290 lines. The practical consequence for a homeowner is temperature: R290 units reach 70 to 75C flow, which is what makes keeping most of your existing radiators viable and what lets the heat pump handle hot water without help.

Higher capability is not the same as higher setpoint

A unit that can reach 75C should not be run at 75C all winter. The high temperature capability is there for hot water cycles and cold snaps. A good design uses the lowest flow temperature the emitters allow, and only reaches up when it has to.

What decides whether yours is any good

The Electrification of Heat data showed high variation in performance between installations, which is why design quality and the heat loss survey matter more than the age or style of the property. The same unit, fitted two different ways, is effectively two different products.

  1. A room by room heat loss calculation, not a rule of thumb from the size of your old boiler.
  2. Emitters checked room by room against the design flow temperature, with only the rooms that fail getting new radiators.
  3. The lowest design flow temperature the house allows, because every degree costs efficiency.
  4. A hot water strategy that does not lean on the immersion heater every day.
  5. Controls set up so the system runs steadily rather than blasting on and off.

Every county page on this site carries a local calculator and the current grant position for that area, so start at our coverage map if you want the picture for where you actually live. If you are also weighing up solar panels or battery storage, the interaction with a heat pump is worth planning in one go rather than in three separate visits.

Clearline gives independent guidance. Installations are carried out by an MCS-certified installation team for your area, and we do not sell or supply any of the products named on this page.

FAQs

How heat pumps work, answered

Does a heat pump use a lot of electricity?

It uses a lot less than an electric heater delivering the same warmth, because it moves heat rather than generating it. In the Electrification of Heat trial the median air source system delivered 2.8 units of heat per unit of electricity. Your annual consumption depends on your heat demand and your system's real world efficiency, which is why the heat loss survey comes first.

Do I need to get rid of my hot water cylinder?

The opposite. A heat pump system needs a cylinder, because it heats water steadily to a store rather than instantly at the tap the way a combi boiler does. If you currently have a combi, finding space for a cylinder is one of the practical questions the survey answers.

Will a heat pump work if my house is cold and draughty?

It will work, and the government funded trial found no property type or architectural era unsuitable for a heat pump across 742 installations. A leakier house has a higher calculated heat loss, so it needs a larger unit and bigger emitters, which shows up as a higher install cost rather than a technical impossibility.

What is the difference between SCOP and SPF?

SCOP is the seasonal efficiency measured in laboratory conditions and printed on the datasheet. SPF is what the system actually achieved in a real house across a real year. The Electrification of Heat median SPF of 2.80 sits well below most datasheet SCOP figures, and closing that gap is what good design does.

Is a heat pump noisy?

Manufacturers publish figures in the 30s of decibels for their quieter units, measured at a stated distance. In England, permitted development also requires a sound calculation showing 37 dB(A) or lower at the assessment position of the nearest noise sensitive premises. Our guide to heat pump noise and planning rules explains what that means in practice.

Can a heat pump cool my house in summer?

Some air to water units offer a cooling mode, but it is not universal and it is not what most UK domestic systems are specified for. Treat cooling as a separate question to raise on your design call rather than an assumed feature.

Figures and specifications in this guide are sourced below and were checked on the date shown. Rates and product specifications change; we confirm the current picture on your free design call.

Sources
  • Energy Systems Catapult, Electrification of Heat demonstration project, 742 installations, all housing types finding and in situ performance data reports es.catapult.org.uk
  • Vaillant, aroTHERM plus product and specification pages: R290 refrigerant with GWP of 3, SCOP up to 5.03, 75C flow temperature, operation to minus 25C vaillant.co.uk
  • Mitsubishi Electric Ecodan R290 datasheet (distributor copy): 75C flow, operation to minus 25C saturnsales.co.uk
  • Daikin, Altherma 3 R product page: R32 Bluevolution, operation to minus 25C daikin.eu
  • Samsung Climate Solutions, EHS Mono R290 and EHS Mono HT Quiet product pages: SCOP at 35C and 65C flow samsung-climatesolutions.com
  • APMI, radiator sizing for low temperature systems: typical heat pump flow temperatures against boiler flow temperatures apmi.uk
  • MCS 020 (a), Air Source Heat Pump Sound Calculation for Permitted Development Installations, Issue 1.0, July 2025 mcscertified.com
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